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Tuesday July 12th, 2016 I stood on the summit of Mount Hood, the state highpoint of Oregon. This was #44 out of 50 for me. This was a hard won summit, with my first attempt ending in failure after being turned back 700′ from the summit due to weather. The second attempt was also not without its challenges, so when I finally did make it, it felt like I had really accomplished something.

Hood has a reputation for nastiness, and has killed over 130 people. It’s one of the higher death tolls for US mountains. Even so, I was still surprised the intensity and variety of her wrath. Why is Hood a female? Because a male mountain doesn’t really care if you climb him or not, he’s indifferent. But a female mountain will fight you all the way to the top. And fight she did, throwing freezing rainstorms, icy winds, whiteouts, avalanches, hailstorms and even a fall for good measure.

As I mentioned, it took two attempts to bag this one, and the stories are tightly linked, so I have combined them both into this one trip report.

A  happy Danger stands jauntily on the summit of Mount Hood.

Highpoint Statistics:
Summit Date: Tuesday July 12th, 2016
State: Oregon
Summit Elevation: 11,249′
Trailhead Elevation: 5,860′
Elevation Gain: 5,389′
US Rank by Height: 13th
Round Trip Hiking Time: 13 Hours

Highpoint Links:
Trip Report – You will see larger photos here.
Posts
Photo Gallery #1
Photo Gallery #2
GPS Track #1
GPS Track #2

To view a sortable table of all of the highpoints with completion dates, trip reports, photo galleries, blog entries an GPS tracks, visit the US State Highpoint Progress Page.

About the Mountain
Mount Hood, was called “Wy’East” by the American Indians who once inhabited the area. Hood is a potentially active stratovolcano located only 50 miles east of Portland. Steam is constantly spewing from fumarole areas and sulfuric gases are a hazard for climbers. Eleven glaciers grace Mt. Hood’s peak and the Timberline Ski Lodge is situated at the base of the mountain. At 11,249 feet, it is Oregon’s highest mountain as well as being one of the most visually impressive mountains in the nation based on its geographical prominence.

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So state highpoint #44 is officially in the bag. I’ve been back at the trailhead for an hour, loading & sorting gear, changing out of my wet clothes, which was not fun in freezing windy conditions.

This was a very big day. A full 13 hours of non stop intensely physically challenging and technically demanding work. This was the most technical mountain I have climbed yet, and it definitely sharpened my skills and showed me some weak points.

I’ll post a report later, but for now, I’m going to go find me a wilderbeast to eat.

Geared up and leaving the trailhead now where it’s a balmy 48 degrees. More wind than expected, but otherwise weather is good.

If you’ve been following along, you know my first Attempt on Mt. Hood was a bust due to weather.  Here’s the plan for my second attempt.

Visibility during my first attempt was insufficient to navigate the technical climb to the summit.

The climbing season ends soon, so I need to finish it this trip to make it by my 50th birthday, so I cancelled my return flight, extended my room and car and stayed. It has been suggested to me that it would be OK to slide a bit and do it during my 50th year, but that’s not the goal. The goal is 50 by 50, so I’m going to give it my best effort to complete the goal on time.

Going Solo
I’m going to climb it solo and here’s why; first because my previous Guide Ben was confident that I’m a strong and competent enough climber to handle it and thought my chances would actually be better than going with a guided group as weak climbers often turn those around. I could do another private guide like before, but the guided trips all use snow cats and or ski lifts to get higher on the mountain, and I want to climb it all myself. Also because I have been within 700′ of the summit already and did not find it particularly taxing, although the last 700′ are extremely steep, but I’ve climbed vertical ice walls before and have the skills, strength and experience. And finally because I’m a manly man and Old Spice said I could have another shot at the contract if I went solo. If that joke doesn’t make any sense to you, take a look at the Illinois highpoint trip report.  

One Day Up And Down
It will be a single day, climb this time because I don’t need the head start that the camping gives you and it makes logistics simpler.

Weather
The weather has greatly improved, and Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday are all clear days. Tuesday has below freezing temperatures which will keep the snow firm and reduce the chance of rock fall and avalanches. So Unless the weather changes, Tuesday is the day.

Lighter Load
I have secured some gear from the local climbing shop, mainly a lighter pack to replace my 8 lb expedition one and a few other items to lighten the load and fill in gaps created by the new plan. I had 60 lbs of gear the first time, I expect to have 25lbs or less this time.

Timing
I’ll start at 11:00 PM on Monday, and climb the whole darn thing myself thank you, none of that lame ski lift nonsense. I hope to be at the summit around sunrise and back down before noon. It’s important to get up and down early for better snow conditions. The steep upper slopes especially become slushy when the sun hits them as well as the aforementioned rock and avalanche risk.

I have shifted my sleep schedule so I can get 8 hours sleep today from 2:00PM – 10:00PM before I leave at for the mountain to start climbing at 11:00PM.

But as they say, no plan survives contact with the enemy, so I’ll keep you posted.

If that doesn’t make any sense to you, take a look at the Illinois highpoint trip report.

Back at the trailhead now.

Because the climbing window closes soon, I need to stay and try again.

I will formulate new plan and post an update.

Ben suggested I should solo it, and I’m considering it as well as other guided options.

2:30AM and rain is back, so we wait for an opportunity. It is well below freezing higher up, so we need to stay dry or we risk hypothermia.

I do love a good challenge but don’t care to become a DangerSickle.

Had a hearty breakfast, and will continue consumption of mass quantities until we leave. Summit day on hood is 8-12 hours and a man my size will burn around 7,000 calories on such a climb.

Our low pressure window up high has expanded, so weather up higher should be better for longer, we just need to get above the rain/freeze line.

For now, we wait…

12:30 AM Update:

Temp hovered just above freezing and it rained most of the night.

High humidity and cold irritating my throat and sinuses.

There is a low pressure window at 5:00 AM that may give us an opportunity to summit. We need to be in position at the Hogs Back Ridge below the summit to take advantage of it.

Windy but no rain, so we will be moving higher on schedule.

Been sleeping since 4:00 PM, and will wake at 12:30 gear up and move out weather permitting. Rare to get a good nights rest before summit day. Have literally had as little as 3 hours before a 16 hour summit day so getting a full night is quite a luxury. Sunset was at 9:00 and it’s a bit challenging to sleep with the light. Wind buffeting the tent also does not help, but eventually it becomes normal and I awake when the wind stops.

Ominous clouds line the horizon, & forecast looks bad for summit attempt tomorrow. We are going to push for it, but chances of success are 50% according to my very personable guide Ben.

Ben suggested we take the ski lift partway up which shaved 2.5 hours off the climb. I told him I felt like a dirty lowdown cheater but he wanted to beat the rain and it was a good call as it started raining soon after camp was complete. I’ve been caught in rain before and all of my clothing layers, sleeping bag, socks, everything got wet and did not dry for days. Trust me alpine climbing in soggy underwear is not fun.

We will wake at 1:00AM, if storming we will try later.

Ben is a Sagittarius.