All posts in State Highpoints

06 Nov

Guadalupe Peak Trip Report Posted & 50 by 50 Concluded

In State Highpoints by Robert Danger Byrd / November 6, 2016 / 3 Comments

On my 50th birthday, at sunrise, October 29th, 2016, I stood atop Guadalupe Peak, the tallest mountain in Texas, with my closest friend, Rick Overholt. This was my final highpoint, of the 50 states, which marked the end of a challenging and rewarding journey, taking me to the highest point in every state in America. 

Danger and Rick at the Guadalupe Peak summit, posing for our last summit photo.

Danger and Rick stand at the Guadalupe Peak Texas summit at sunrise.

 

Highpoint Statistics:
Summit Date: Saturday October 29th, 2016
State: Texas
Elevation: 8,751′
US Rank by Height: 14th
Distance: 8.5 Miles
Elevation Gain: 3,015′
Round Trip Hiking Time: 20 Hours (Camped Overnight)

Highpoint Links:
Trip Report (Larger Photos Here)
Blog Posts
Photo Gallery
GPS Track – Climb
GPS Track – Road Trip

To view a sortable table of all of the highpoints with completion dates, trip reports, photo galleries, blog entries an GPS tracks, visit the US State Highpoint Page.

A Texas Story
It always seemed to surprise people when they heard about my 50 by 50 goal and learned that I hadn’t done Texas yet. Having been raised, born and conceived in Texas, (not necessarily in that order), there was never any question about the proper sequence in my lone star mind. The plan was to complete the journey by standing at the top of Texas at sunrise on my 50th birthday. I was accompanied by my close friend, Rick Overholt, which was fitting since he is the one who started me on this steep and winding path when in 2010, Rick invited me to climb Borah Peak Idaho with him. Borah was my first state highpoint, and it was atop this mountain that I decided to do all 50 states. 

So the journey ended, as it had began; with two old men walking up a hill.

 

Road Trip
Guadalupe Peak is just about as far west as you can go without leaving Texas. The round trip to West Texas was just shy of 1500 miles. Susan and I drove out in our motor coach, which we lovingly call “BigByrd”.

The 1,500 mile trip took across Texas and back.

The 1,500 mile trip took us across Texas and back.

 

On the way there, Susan and I visited Big Bend for the first time and found it to be an awe inspiring place worthy of a return visit. We saw some interesting wildlife (coyote, road runner, jack rabbit, deer, tarantula…) and lots of remarkable terrain.

This tarantula was blocking traffic, in Big Bend until we shooed him off the road.

This rather large tarantula was blocking traffic, in Big Bend until we shooed him off the road.

 

There were lions and tigers and bears, Oh My!

We rescued this little guy and brought him home to our granddaughter who is still deliberating on what to name him. 

 

Driving through the park was awe inspiring

Driving through the park was awe inspiring.

 

As usual, some things broke, and I had to employ the duct tape and baling wire. Word to the wise, if you don’t like fixing things, don’t buy an RV. 

 

Danger repairs the rear air dump valve on BigByrd.

Danger repairs the rear air dump valve on BigByrd.

 

While visiting Big Bend, we stayed in Marathon, at the Marathon RV Park, which is just north of Big Bend. They had a wonderful central courtyard that always seemed to attract people in the evenings. Our last evening there was during a lightning storm and the entire town was without power. Being in an RV, we had simply started the generator so the power outage didn’t affect us.

The central courtyard of the Marathon Hotel and RV Park

The central courtyard of the Marathon Hotel and RV Park

 

Ambassador Susan
The night of the power outage we joined friends around the fireplace in the courtyard to enjoy a bit wine and cheese. Soon a group of about a dozen french people joined us in the courtyard. They were inquiring about a place to eat. But since the entire town was in a blackout, the restaurants were closed. So we shared the wine and cheese, and Susan went back to the coach to cook course after course for the french. And let me tell you the french can eat. In the end, they said that we had altered their opinion of Americans for the better, and they would go back and tell their countryman. So you have Susan to thank for better international relations with France.  

Some of the hungry French.

The hungry French masses…

Carlsbad
From there we proceeded to Carlsbad where we met Rick and Kathy, who had flown into El Paso. You can’t go to Carlsbad without visiting the Carlsbad Caverns, and so we did. Of course, it was amazing. Carlsbad is one the largest caves in the world, and is a must see. 

 

Susan and Robert in the Carlsbad Caverns Hall of Giants

Susan and Robert in the Carlsbad Caverns Hall of Giants

 

One of the incredibly large rooms in Carlsbad Caverns.

One of the expansive rooms in Carlsbad Caverns.

 

 

The Mountain
Guadalupe Peak is not a technical climb and requires no special equipment. However, it is an 8.5 mile round trip hike with just over 3,000 feet of elevation gain. It is a moderately steep climb, which demands that you be in good physical condition. The trails are well marked and easy to follow, which having been lost many times on highpoints, I can appreciate.

Much of the switchback style trail wound up the mountainside with a wonderful west Texas valley view.

Much of the switchback style trail wound up the mountainside with a wonderful west Texas valley view.

We left the trailhead at 4PM on the 28th with the weather wonderfully cool. Temperatures were in the mid 60s, dropping to the low 50s, as we climbed. The winds coming off the desert here are infamous for their ferocity, and speeds of 120MPH are on record. According to a park ranger, RV trailers have been blown around like tumbleweeds. So we were quite pleased to find gentle 5 – 10 MPH winds. At some places, the trail is shoulder width with sheer cliffs you can peer down, if you are brave enough. I can see how this could be unnerving in extreme winds. It is in these exposed sections that the views are the most expansive, and the bald, rolling hills seem to continue into infinity. The beauty draws your eyes up and out, but the narrow trail demands your attention, so I found myself stealing quick glances along the way while, also, closely watching my footing.

Happy Campers
This mountain can be climbed in a single day, but we opted for an overnight trip to make for an easy sunrise summit. Rick and I both enjoy camping in the mountains, and look for every opportunity to do so. There are no mountain streams to refill your bottles, so we brought plenty of water. We selected one of the sites deep in the camping area that was far down the mountainside, giving us a great view of the sunset. The sites were large, level, and featured eyelets in the wood boundaries for securing guy lines. It is typically very windy on this mountain, so that is a helpful feature. 

Danger at the 8,100' campsite.

Danger at the 8,100′ campsite.

It was an unusually quite night, especially considering Guadalupe’s tendency for gale force winds. Whether due to wind, rain or snowstorms, mountains are typically noisy and I have grown accustomed to sleeping well in those conditions. This night was eerily quiet, and I woke up numerous times.

We awoke before dawn to find the wind had picked up considerably. With a breakfast of bars, we packed up and headed to the summit. 

Spirits in the Sky
My stepson, Chris Britt, had given me a 53 year old bottle of port, for toasting at the summit.  Back in Carlsbad while loading our gear, we noticed the cork had disintegrated. We feared the rare wine was ruined, but Susan saved the day by straining it and transferring it to a much lighter bottle. After a bit of sampling, (Warning! lame pun ahead) pronounced it in good spirits.

We were concerned the port was bad when we saw the cork had disintegrated, but all was well.

We were concerned the port was bad when we saw the cork had disintegrated, but all was well.

Sunrise Summit
We started up the mountain towards the summit around 6:15AM, to make the 45 minute climb to the summit in time for the 7:15 sunrise. It is a curious thing climbing your way up a mountain in the dark. Your vision is limited to the beam of your headlamp, but you still have a feel for your surroundings. Perhaps it is the sound, or the air movement, but you can sense the immense mass of the mountain on one side, and the vast open space on the other. It is both simultaneously reassuring and anxiety producing. 

Danger and Rick waiting for the sunrise.

Danger and Rick waiting for the sunrise.

We arrived on schedule and found the summit to be even windier, but not uncomfortably, with temps in the low 50s. We were just in time for the sunrise, and settled in near the summit, in the lee of a rocky ledge, facing east. There we smoked Cuban cigars and toasted with the remarkably fine vintage port, as the most magnificent sunrise unfolded before our eyes. 

Danger, hats off to Texas.

Danger, hats off to Texas.

 

Danger seated at the summit

Danger seated at the summit

We took quite a few photos, but they do not do justice to what we saw. For the full experience, you will have to climb the mountain yourself and stand there on a perfect day while the sun rises over the valley below.

 

Summit Marker
In 1958, American Airlines erected a 6′ tall stainless steel, three sided pyramid on the summit, which featured on one side a tribute to the Pony Express Riders of the Butterfield Stage which passed nearby, on another side the  logo of the Boy Scouts of America, and of course, on the 3rd side the American Airlines logo. This type of mountaintop marketing is unusual and would not be possible today, but it was done before the park became government property in 1972. Up to that point it was privately owned, and before that inhabited by the Mescalero Apaches who used the high ground to strategic advantage.

The curious pyramid summit marker, placed there by American Airlines in 1958.

The curious pyramid summit marker, placed there by American Airlines in 1958.

I stuck around to shoot a few more photos as the sun climbed higher and took these shots on my way back down to camp.

Rick departing the summit

Rick departing the summit

 

Danger looking down at "El Cappitan" a peak that Rick wanted to climb.

Just below the summit, looking down at El Cappitan.

 

There were many beautiful vistas coming down from the summit.

There were many beautiful vistas coming down from the summit.

 

Back at camp, I ask Rick how he is feeling, and he replies; “It feels good to be a gangster!”. Rick is on a hip hop kick, you see, so we broke down camp to music that old men have no business listening to.

Celebrity Treatment
Rick left camp ahead of me, while I sorted out the last of my gear and took a few more photos. After a few minutes I was greeted by a couple of young men on their way up the mountain who enthusiastically congratulated me. Rick had told them it was my birthday and I had just completed the 50 state highpoints. 

Saju and Stanley were the first to enthusiastically congratulate me on my way down the mountain thanks to Rick.

Saju and Stanley were the first to enthusiastically congratulate me on my way down the mountain, thanks to Rick.

I thought; “that was nice”, and continued hiking. The next group I encountered, started singing happy birthday as soon as they saw me. The next group greeted me with a round of hand shakes and high fives chanting “DANGER!, DANGER!”. The next group shouted; “LOOK, it’s Danger!” as they surrounded me and peppered me with questions.

It happened like this over and over. There were well over a hundred people coming up the mountain that day, and all but a few greeted me. People were asking questions, congratulating me, singing happy birthday, asking for autographs and taking photos with me. It really made me feel special. 

Some of the climbers confessed that Rick had told them about my 50 by  50 goal and my birthday, as he sped by and asked them to delay me so he could beat me down the mountain. Whatever his motivation, it made the descent great fun and it was my best birthday celebration, ever. 

PBS Mountainside Interview
And, if all the congratulations wasn’t cool enough, I ran into a PBS crew who is filming a special by the Bargo brothers called “The Highpointers”. They too greeted me like a celebrity. They had cameras rolling as I came down the mountain. I blogged about this and many of you thought I was kidding, but I wasn’t. Below is a photo my GoPro snapped during the interview. It just goes to show that you never know what might happen on a mountainside. I have since been in contact with PBS and have granted them permission to use my interview in the upcoming pilot of “The Highpointers”. 

The PBS crew who interviewed Danger on the way down the mountain.

The PBS crew who interviewed Danger on the way down the mountain.

Back at the Trailhead
By this time I knew what Rick was up to, so when I wasn’t meeting a new friend, I was running down the mountain trying to catch him. Towards the bottom, I came upon to two young girls that I had not yet seen. When they saw me running towards them, they also began running down the mountain. I think they must have been spooked to find a 6’3″ old man chasing them, and wanted to keep their distance. They were faster than me and I didn’t catch up to them; so I’ll never know. 

I found Rick at the bottom a few paces before the trailhead with a triumphant grin on his face. He waited for me and we walked the final steps, side by side, the same way we began this journey in 2010. 

Rick and Danger back at the trailhead, and mission accomplished!

Rick and Danger back at the trailhead, and my 50 by 50 goal is accomplished!

50 by 50 Complete
Now that the goal is complete, I feel a mixture of emotions. Gratitude for the support of my wife, family, friends, sponsors and staff. Pride for having completed what was certainly the most difficult goal I have ever attempted. Awe for the beauty I have witnessed with my own eyes. And blessed for the physical and mental ability to attempt such a thing. 

But I also feel a sense of loss. This goal has been a major part of my life for 6 years now. The goal took on a life of its own and was ever present in my thoughts, through the valleys, in the rain, snow, and on the mountaintops. The joy was in the journey, and now that its over, it feels like I’ve lost an old friend. This is not unusual, and is referred to as Post Achievement Depression, and often affects us when we complete our goals. The bigger the goal, the more intense the feelings. The best medicine is to get busy on the next goal, which I’m already doing, but I will always cherish this special time in my life.

Goal: 50 by 50
To walk, climb or crawl to the highest point in every state in America. – DONE!

Final Thoughts
The 50 by 50 goal has changed me in many ways: physically, mentally, emotionally and spiritually. Physically, I had to work harder than I ever have before to train my body. I started with debilitating knee problems and chronic lower back pain, but now I’m stronger at 50 than I have ever been in my life and 100% pain free. Mentally, I have learned to stay the course and push myself, harder than I previously thought possible to overcome difficult challenges. During those times when I found myself struggling up a mountain and every step was agony, it wasn’t strength, but mental determination and force of will that kept me moving upwards. Emotionally, I have learned to be happy wherever I am; whether I lay my head down in a hostel, a glacier or a mountaintop, I’m OK. And spiritually, I am in awe of a God who would care enough to take the time and create such a wonderful planet for me to explore. 

29 Oct

inReach message from Danger Beacon

In State Highpoints by Delorme InReach / October 29, 2016 / 0 Comments

Back at the trailhead. I’ve never been happy birth dayed, high fived & congratulated so much. It’s been the best birthday! And I wasn’t kidding about PBS.

29 Oct

inReach message from Danger Beacon

In State Highpoints by Delorme InReach / October 29, 2016 / 0 Comments

I was just interviewed by PBS on the way down the mountain. Rick is intentionally slowing me down, but it’s been fun posing for photos and signing autographs

29 Oct

inReach message from Danger Beacon

In State Highpoints by Delorme InReach / October 29, 2016 / 0 Comments

Rick headed down just ahead of me, & I’ve been trying to catch him. He’s telling folks coming up about the 50by50, & they all want to talk, slowing me down.

29 Oct

inReach message from Danger Beacon

In State Highpoints by Delorme InReach / October 29, 2016 / 0 Comments

Heading down now. Broke camp to Ricks Hip-Hop music. I don’t think old men are supposed to listen to rap music. But darn it feels good to be a gangster!

29 Oct

inReach message from Danger Beacon

In State Highpoints by Delorme InReach / October 29, 2016 / 0 Comments

It was an amazing sunrise, and the port was remarkable! Heading back down to camp now.

29 Oct

inReach message from Danger Beacon

In State Highpoints by Delorme InReach / October 29, 2016 / 0 Comments

Sitting atop Texas w my closest friend, watching the sunrise smoking Cuban cigars & toasting with 53 year old port. The 50 by 50 goal completed. Praise God!

29 Oct

inReach message from Danger Beacon

In State Highpoints by Delorme InReach / October 29, 2016 / 0 Comments

Sitting atop Texas w my closest friend, watching the sunrise smoking Cuban cigars & toasting with 53 year old port. The 50 by 50 goal completed. Praise God!

29 Oct

inReach message from Danger Beacon

In State Highpoints by Delorme InReach / October 29, 2016 / 7 Comments

Sitting atop Texas w my closest friend, watching the sunrise smoking Cuban cigars & toasting with 53 year old port. The 50 by 50 goal completed. Praise God!

29 Oct

inReach message from Danger Beacon

In State Highpoints by Delorme InReach / October 29, 2016 / 0 Comments

Now leaving for the 8751′ summit from 8100′ camp. Should take 30-45 minutes to get there. 50 degrees calm and stars are brilliant against the moonless sky.

29 Oct

inReach message from Danger Beacon

In State Highpoints by Delorme InReach / October 29, 2016 / 0 Comments

Up now, typically I sleep well on the mountain. We have a nice level tent spot, perched on the mountainside. But It was so calm we both had trouble sleeping.

28 Oct

inReach message from Danger Beacon

In State Highpoints by Delorme InReach / October 28, 2016 / 0 Comments

Had shepard’s pie, chocolate cheesecake & whiskey for dinner. Turning in now and will leave camp early for sunrise summit. Stars are brilliant night is calm.

28 Oct

inReach message from Danger Beacon

In State Highpoints by Delorme InReach / October 28, 2016 / 0 Comments

Made the 8100′ camp 15 minutes ago. Gentle wind, 55 deg. Rain clouds in the distance, sun peeking through, will be a dramatic sunset

28 Oct

inReach message from Danger Beacon

In State Highpoints by Delorme InReach / October 28, 2016 / 0 Comments

Taking a break on rocky ledge overlooking a sweeping valley view. Gained 1200′ the first hour, not bad for a couple of old guys. Feeling good, feeling strong

28 Oct

inReach message from Danger Beacon

In State Highpoints by Delorme InReach / October 28, 2016 / 0 Comments

Taking a break on rocky ledge overlooking a sweeping valley view. Gained 1200′ the first hour, not bad for a couple of old guys. Feeling good, feeling strong

28 Oct

inReach message from Danger Beacon

In State Highpoints by Delorme InReach / October 28, 2016 / 0 Comments

We are geared up and leaving the trailhead now. Relatively light packs at 30lbs each. Perfect weather, cool w low winds. A good day to climb a mountain!

28 Oct

Guadalupe Peak Climb Starts Soon

In State Highpoints by Robert Danger Byrd / October 28, 2016 / 0 Comments

Today is the day I begin climbing  Guadalupe Peak, the final climb in the 50 by 50 goal.

To walk climb or crawl to the highest point in every state in America by age 50.

As it turns out, Rick is the only one who will be joining me on this final peak, which seems appropriate since it was he who introduced me to climbing, when he invited me to climb Borah Peak, the Idaho state highpoint in 2010.

Danger and Rick standing on the 12,662' summit of Borah Peak

Danger and Rick standing on the 12,662′ summit of Borah Peak Idaho

The Plan
Susan and Kathy will stay behind in Carlsbad in BigByrd (our motor coach) while Rick and I make the climb. We will climb up today, Friday October 28th and camp about a mile from the summit around 8,100′. In the morning we will move out early with the goal of standing at the 8,751′ summit of the mountain at Sunrise on Saturday October 29th, my 50th Birthday.

We had a scare with the 53 year old bottle of port when we discovered the cork had disintegrated, but Susan strained and transferred it to another bottle. We sampled it and found it to be fine. So it will be going up with us after all along with some Cuban cigars.

The 53 year old port that will be carried to the summit.

The 53 year old port that will be carried to the summit.

 

As always, I’ll keep you posted on our progress via the Danger Beacon.

 

26 Oct

Carlsbad Bound

In State Highpoints by Robert Danger Byrd / October 26, 2016 / 0 Comments

We just arrived in Carlsbad New Mexico now, where we will stay for the duration of this trip. However, on the drive here, the rear air suspension dumped and we were riding on the frame stops.

Danger "under the bus" once again.

Danger “under the bus” once again.

Once I climbed under the coach, I saw the rear air valve arm had become detached, so after a quick repair we were on our way again. It’s good for something to break every now and then to remind Susan that she really should keep me around.

Big Bend Was Amazing
On the drive west we spent a couple of days exploring Big Bend. It’s hard to believe I’ve been a Texan of 50 years and nobody ever said, “Danger! get your butt to Big Bend, its amazing!” So now I’m saying it to all of you. It really is a remarkable place, and we will be back.

I want to thank Lars, my friend and fellow EO member who suggested we stay in Marathon and explore the park from there, as well as for his suggestions for things to see.

Below are some of our favorite scenes from Big Bend:

 

The Byrds watching a sunrise in Big Bend

The Byrds watching a sunrise in Big Bend

 

Driving through the park was awe inspiring

Driving through the park was awe inspiring

 

Since it is illegal to fly a drone in a national park, I had to throw my camera really, really high to get this shot.

Since it is illegal to fly a drone in a national park, I had to throw my camera really high into the air to get this shot.

 

This time I used a really long stick. About 1500' long in fact.

This time I used a really long stick. About 500′ long in fact.

 

Breathtaking vistas were everywhere!

Breathtaking vistas were everywhere!

 

There were lions and tigers and bears, Oh My!

There were lions and tigers and bears, Oh My!

 

26 Sep

Guadalupe Peak Celebration Plans

In State Highpoints by Robert Danger Byrd / September 26, 2016 / 3 Comments

This is your official invitation to join me on Guadalupe Peak to celebrate the conclusion of the 50 by 50 adventure!

In February of 2010, breathless, blistered, and muscles aching I stood atop my first mountain, giddy with exhilaration. That mountain was the 12,662′ Borah Peak, the tallest mountain in Idaho and my good friend and EO Forum Mate Rick Overholt stood beside me. Rick had climbed a number of mountains already and invited me to join him on this climb. Standing there I felt such an overwhelming sense of accomplishment, that it was there on that mountaintop that I set the 50 by 50 goal.

To walk, climb or crawl, the the highest point in every state in america by my 50th birthday.

Danger and Rick standing on the 12,662' summit of Borah Peak

Danger and Rick standing on the 12,662′ summit of Borah Peak in 2010

So now I am inviting you to join me on the final climb of my 50 by 50 adventure. I intentionally saved Guadalupe Peak, the Texas state highpoint, for last with the plan of standing at the summit of my home state and 50th state highpoint on my 50th birthday, which is October 29th 2016.

Read more →

25 Aug

Great Lakes Trip Complete

In State Highpoints by Robert Danger Byrd / August 25, 2016 / 8 Comments

We just pulled BigByrd into home base, and what a trip!

This was our longest yet, taking us across America and back. We covered 3,509 Miles and burned 498 Gallons of Diesel fuel. Yes, I know that is only 7 MPG, but what kind of mileage does your house get? Susan has become very skilled at driving the 41′, 32,000 lb  motor coach, which allows us to switch off and drive longer days, otherwise a trip like this would have taken much longer than the 14 days it did.

Great Lakes Trip Complete

The Great Lakes trip saw us across America and back.

 

We completed 4 more highpoints which were Eagle Mountain MN, Mount Arvon MI, Timms Hill WI, Hawkeye Point IA taking the grand total to 49! The trip reports are all posted, and if you missed them,  you will find links to the trip reports, photo galleries, blog entries an GPS tracks, on the US State Highpoint Progress Page. We also visited a number of interesting places along the way, and had some very cool experiences, some I blogged about, other I didn’t.

Feeling good about the imminent completion of the 50 by 50 goal.

Feeling good about the imminent completion of the 50 by 50 goal.

Crazy or Not… 49 States Done
Now that the count is at 49 states, for the first time I’m realizing this thing is actually going to happen. In the beginning, many of you thought I was nuts, and told me so. I’m not saying you’re wrong, and perhaps a touch of insanity helps in such an endeavor. But crazy or not, the goal is now within reach! I’m reflecting on the journey and all of the amazing places it has taken me and I feel so grateful. We live in an wonderful country, and I have fallen in love with America again, and am proud to be one of her sons. I am grateful to my wife who has been incredibly supportive, even when things got dangerous. I’m proud of my hyper competent team at Truewater who seem to run the business even better without me there, and God who has blessed me so richly in so many ways.

Texas Time!
So now to Texas, where a surprising number of you have committed to join me on October 29th, 2016.  We are now working on plans and will be in touch on the details, so as always, stay tuned to the Danger Network.